I have the flat high performance starlink disk connected to pepwave max BR1 Pro 5g, I reguraly get WAN: Starlink (Priority 1) disconnected (No cable detected) in the event log, when I start getting these they seem to be fairly predictable, about every 2 hours, When I start getting these I reseat the cable at the dish and it usually fixes the problem for awhile but it always seems to come back, I’ve had it go away for 3 weeks, 2 weeks, sometimes for only a day. Anyone else experiencing this type of behavior? I do unplug starlink before doing this so that might be resetting it as well, seems odd that a cable or loose connection is the issue since neither of those would result in losing connectivity at a predictable time, it would instead be very random. really sort of at a loss of what to try next. Thought about replacing the cable that goes to the dish but that is a major undertaking since my cable is secured to the rv roof with enternbond tape and a cable entry plate covered in dicor.
Hi!
This is an issue we’ve seen and so far only have 1 fix for this and that is to set speed to either 1gbps or 100 full duplex. The issue is auto detecting / advertisement of the speed from the Starlink Dish.
Peplink is aware, but please lodge a support request through the portal as to collect more data from more installations.
Thanks !
Thanks I’ll give that a try
Seemed to make it better only one incident in last 2 days, I wonder how many people are seeing this with the new flat high performance dish (this is the permanently mounted $2500 dish), don’t see many articles on this since its not widely used yet. With the new starlink dish there is no starlink adapter needed they obviously just incorporated it into the power supply, it comes with 2 cable options one for ethernet and one for their router. Disappointing if they new this existed with the other dishes and did nothing to address the issue. I’m thinking of putting a switch between peplink and starlink just like people did with previous gen dishes.
I have this happening too with both a MAX BR1 Pro 5G and MAX BR2 Pro 5G. The settings above do not work for me, and Peplink has had an open ticket from me for several weeks. This has been going on for months with my setup.
Also, I’ve had the Flat High Performance Dish now for almost a year, and know many, many boaters with it, so it is definitely more widely used than you might think. I’d say every 4th boat I see or work on has one.
Having to put a switch in between is unacceptable to me. Peplink already had issues with the previous Starlink dish with older versions of their products, and having to put an additional point of failure and power consuming device in between isn’t a long term solution. This same dish is used by businesses and available using the Maritime plans which are extremely expensive and usually used by large yachts and other commercial ships.
If Peplink is going to continue to play in this market, they need to get basic switching and ports figured out with Starlink. Most of the rest of the market has done this, or realizes they have to be flexible enough to figure something out.
By the way I put a switch between the router and starlink and it didn’t resolve the issue, so I took it back out. Also just to rule out everything I also replaced both cables, the one going from the power supply to the router and from the dish to the power supply. I didnt actually think that would resolve anything since a bad cable or loose connection isn’t predictable i.e. every 2 hours it drops out. more just to appease the person who I have the ticket open with.
Just out of curiosity did you ask on your ticket if the 8.4.0 firmware that is about to come out will address this at all?
Interesting testing with the switch. It sounds like yours just stops working, or does it only stop when you make a configuration change or reboot the Peplink?
Mine works reliably as long as I don’t reboot the Peplink or make any sort of config changes on the WAN interface the HP dish is connected to.
I have been testing with 8.4.0 through the whole beta cycle. It was broken in 8.3.0 (current release) and is still broken in all versions of 8.4.0.
Without making any configuration changes mine will fall into a fairly steady routine of getting no cable detected about every 2 hours but then resolves itself within 7-10 seconds usually. with the switch testing not fixing it and replacing both cables not helping I’m really at a loss at this point. Sounds like our issues are a bit different, but like I state to the person on my ticket cables and loose connections do not follow a set routine for when they go bad, this clearly points to a software issue in my opinion, but I’m down to the main components at this point, if they don’t admit this is something with the router my only path forward now is to replace the power supply or the dish itself. I’m fairly confident given peplink’s track record with starlink that this is still an issue with the router losing its ability to negotiate with starlink.
Just installed the Starlink $2,500 HP antenna with a Peplink new MAX-BR2-Pro.
Only message was “Cable not detected” showing in InControl. So initially I was thinking I had a DOA issue.
The vendor (MobileMustHave) suggested disconnection from the Peplink and using the Starlink router for a test. Within moments I had a connection.
So we did some creative wiring in our Airstream so we could leave the Starlink router under the dinette and just change two cable connections to put Peplink back into the system.
Probably have about $10K into this installation due to custom bases made for both the 11 wire Peplink antenna and the Starlink antenna mounded on the edge of the curved roof and cabinets work inside the Airstream.
The Peplink is on 8.4.1 so the fix is not here yet. I am disappointed it does not work as advertised, but can get by with the gerry rig for now.
Hello @lschwitzer3,
The Peplink community has thousands of deployments using the StarLink HP Antenna, so we are perplexed as to why you needed your StarLink router.
The connection from the StarLink HP Antenna should go to the StarLink HP Power Supply (antenna end), and the StarLink Ethernet Cable should be connected to the remaining available socket on the StarLink Power Supply.
Alternatively, where AC is unavailable, you can use a suitable StarLink DC-DC solution (such as this HyphaLINK DC Power Injector - Rising Connection ). We use these packaged for remote solar-powered locations and packaged for use on moving deployments. Please note that these can only be purchased at the time of supply with the StarLink HP Antenna from the DC-DC manufacturer as part of a contract (a requirement enforced by the manufacturer & possibly StarLink also).
Happy to Help,
Marcus 
Starlink was initially connected to WAN2 on our new MAX-BR2-Pro. Then connection died after a few minutes. We tried the Starlink router next and I could restore and create new networks and passwords but the antenna could not be seen.
A split second flicker of the LED on the antenna power supply and then dormant. Think we have a DOA part there.
We have verified that there is power at the box end of the antenna box power cord.
Maybe it died as soon as my credit card was charged by Starlink for the roaming fee???
There is a first generation Dishy Starlink on my account as well.
I installed the gen3 setup per SL without incident, and the Duo Pro (operating without incident for 45 days on cellular and wan-by-wifi) can see it and use it connected from SL LAN port to Peplink WAN port.
SL Router placed in Bypass mode. Dish happy. Dashboard shows connected. So far, so good.
The specific configuration:
Duo Pro in cabinet interior RV;
1 ft shielded cat6 from WAN port on Duo Pro to the SL Router’s LAN port;
LAN port indicator lights active (and visible in Peplink dashboard);
SL Router connected to SL Power Supply;
SL Power Supply to RV’s AC circuits;
SL Router connected to 15 ft shielded cat6 installed through walls to a shielded waterproof connector port on RV exterior;
SL-supplied cable from that port to the dish.
2nd configuration (and the one we need operational):
SL Router and SL Power Supply not used – instead connect Duo Pro WAN port via shielded cat6 (1 ft) to POE injector IN port;
POE injector gets 57VDC from high-quality dc-dc power supply (Mean Well 2.1A);
Power supply gets 12VDC from fused DC distribution panel;
15 ft shielded cat6 (in RV walls) connected to OUT port of POE injector;
And terminates at shielded waterproof connector port on RV exterior (just as in 1st configuration);
SL-supplied cable from that port to the dish (just as in 1st configuration).
Results?
Power indicator on 12-57 DC converter;
Power indicator on injector;
No indicator lights on Duo Pro WAN port.
No connection in dashboard (of course).
Reverse back to original configuration; indicator lights on Duo Pro WAN port good; connection made; SL dish happy.
I see the comment here about needing a solid ground in the RJ-45. I suppose the Injector could be bad; used the one recommended by many – Tycon POE-INJ-1000-WT
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BKV6NYD
Since I didn’t modify or change any of the RJ-45 connectors anywhere in either configuration.
Thoughts?
Any luck debugging? I have a new gen 3 that is not being recognized by the Max BR1 Pro 5G. WAN Port shows “Cable Not Connected”. No lights on the WAN port beyond an initial blip when it starts up or I change configs. Then dark. Funny thing is, when I move the Starlink to one of the LAN ports, Starlink auto negotiates and the network link becomes active. I’ve tried all the suggestions including setting to 1Gbps, 100 Mbps, and even 10 Mbps Full duplex. I also set the DNS servers and the health check servers. I’m on 8.4.1, so not sure if this is a known issue with new Starlinks.
Yes, I meant to come back here and post the resolution… the problem was in the PoE injector. Even though I’ve read of countless folks using this cheap one (Tycon $19.99)
This one instantly resolved the problem, and is clearly more sturdy and with more rugged power connections:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0CSBYJLPV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title
Well worth the $83.
All is well, without changing speeds. Excellent performance.
Ok, Thank you for the update. I guess I’ll have to look elsewhere. I have a similar Yaosheng POE to your latest (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BX74T2T5). I was hoping for a simple fix while on the road. It looks like serious debug may have to wait a few weeks.
Bummer.
Looking back in this thread, I would say that it is 99% likely it is the wiring between the antenna and the Max BR2 –
Not the firmware (you’re up to date) or the Max BR2 internally, since you’ve proven it works with the SL router. Just as my Max Transit Duo did when I had similar symptoms.
On plenty of other sites and threads, I see caution about loose connections (for those using DIY connectors from the earlier generations) and poor grounds. Thus my 99% confidence that your problem is likely the same as mine. That SL standard cable with the push-pull connector, and no locking tab, gives me additional concern.
Good luck, and let us know how it unfolds.
David, you can add my issue to your 99% bucket. I had a chance to thoroughly test the factory Starlink cable today (ie I replaced it with a standard CAT6 cable)….and the system now works. I have Starlink Gen 3 Standard working with my Peplink Max BR1 Pro 5G and a 56V POE injector and no Starlink router. I didn’t see any obvious damage on the cable, but I could have been damaged the connector during installation when I pulled it through the roof of my Transit. I probably should have been a bit more gentle. Regardless, I’ll be picking up a replacement cable from Starlink so I can restore the water tight seal and fishing the wire through the ceiling. Such fun….
I have AC available. I have the Gen 3 Dishy and the BR1 Pro Max 5G. I’ve got things set-up with the Starlink router in bypass mode, but would like to connect diretly to the Peplink router without using the Starlink router at all. Is the POE injector required to power the Dish in this case? Any guidance is appreciated.
you need a power source for your dish.
Same situation here. This is an RV install of the Flat, High Performance dish with a BR1 Pro Max 5G. The install is exactly as shown in the picture previously on this thread. No POE injector. No homemade cables. No dodgy wiring. Everything is running on stable AC (not DC). Latest firmware (just updated today to be sure).
Simply shows “no cable detected”. No changes were made since the last time the RV was put away. Setting speed manually to something (1G, 100, etc) has no impact.
Any other suggestions?