HELP! Starlink High Performance Flat Panel + Yaosheng POE Injector + Peplink BR1 5G PRO = "No Cable Connected" Error

Product Discussion Pepwave MAX
1

I am trying to replace the standard Starlink router (UTP-221) that comes with the Starlink High Performance Flat Panel (Marine/In-Motion) kit so I can power the dish directly from my Airstream’s 12 VDC. I have been trying to do this conversion for the past year with various components and configurations, all with the same results.

This is the current configuration:

I have this Yaosheng 320W POE injector that supports 48-56VDC:
YAOSHENG 320W PoE Injector for Starlink HP (Starlink High Performance) : Amazon.ca: Electronics

To power the POE injector, I have this DC-DC converter:
DC-DC Voltage Step Up Converter Boost Module 10-60V to 12-97V 1500W 30A CC CV : Amazon.ca: Electronics

And the router is a recently purchased Peplink BR1 5G PRO. In the router, Starlink is set up as WAN1.

When everything connected and powered up, this the behavior I see:
1. The POE injector LED is a solid green.
2. Peplink attempts to connect to Starlink, displaying the WAN status “Connecting… (No IP Address)” for about 10 seconds
3. Peplink then displays “Checking Connectivity… (206.214.239.194)” with for about 20 seconds
4. Sometimes Peplink will display “Starlink Outage (Booting)” for 5 seconds
5. Peplink then displays “No Cable Connected (No IP Address)”. Sometimes there is a Starlink icon, usually there is no logo.
6. At the same time, the POE injector flashes a fast red and yellow about 8 times, then flashes a slow white about 4 times
7. About 30 seconds later, this entire process repeats with “Connecting…”

The POE LEDs seem to be indicating a undervoltage input to the POE when the HP dish is trying to reboot (I assume). I know it has been noted that this Starlink HP panel may have large current spikes during reboot.

I got the current variable power supply to try different voltages. It is set at 56 VDC to overcome any upstream voltage drops; I had read that the dish itself can accept 48-56 VDC input.

If I skip the POE injector and plug the dish directly into the original Starlink router (powered with 120 VAC), and then connect that to the Peplink router WAN port, THIS WORKS as expected.

I have tried (all with the same results):
- Putting an unmanaged switch in between the POE LAN port and the router WAN port
- Changing the router port speed (auto, 1Gbps, 100 Mbps)
- Replacing the DC-DC converter (4 so far)
- Changing the power supply voltage (tried everything from 48VDC to 56VDC)
- Replacing the POE injector (4 different models so far)
- Tried different POE types, like the one requiring custom RJ45 wiring
- Replacing the router (was using a MoFi 5500 previously, the Peplink is much easier to configure)
- Checked and replaced cables and connectors, using CAT7 where necessary and ensuring shield/ground connections

I have spent a lot of time (and money!) trying to figure this out without luck. Does anyone have any insights?

1 Like
2

I don’t think you’re going to get much of a different response than you got on reddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/Starlink/comments/1kjfe7h/help_starlink_high_performance_flat_panel_marine/)

The red/yellow flashing of the Yaosheng indicates an input power problem:

Screenshot 2025-05-15 at 10.12.56 AM
Screenshot 2025-05-15 at 10.12.56 AM1724×1330 335 KB

This isn’t a Peplink issue but is your input power issue. That step up converter you’re using doens’t look to be the best, though I’ve never personally tested one. Look for a Meanwell, those are the best (or close to it): [removing as this is the wrong model spec].

Do note that most of your cheaper DC-DC converters are non-isolated. For example: https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Heavy-duty-Converter-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B01N8S6A6T is one that would work for you, but it is non-isolated and has exposed terminals that you would need to protect/enclose. Your airstream’s solar charge controller and such are in an area where this would work well, assuming you protected the terminals in a way to prevent them from being shorted/touched.

3

do some basic troubleshooting… use a voltmeter… see if the dish is online using the website/app which does not require it to be working on the peplink… if the dish is not online/getting proper power, its not a peplink issue. that looks like a cheap power converter. look to see if victron has one. also i usually go a size up or so.

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Thanks for you input!

Yes, I’m starting to suspect it is the DC-DC converter and current spikes when the dish initiates.

I tried looking on the Meanwell site for a 12V → 48V @ 10A converter, but it seems at that amperage, they only have units that need a minimum 19V input.

I will try ordering the 10A converter you recommended and installing it next week. I can build an enclosure around the terminals to protect them.

Any recommendation on wire gauge from the DC power panel to the converter? This would be a distance of 10 to 12 feet in my scenario.

Thanks again!

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it’s all but confirmed that it’s the step up converter given your yaosheng is showing you under-voltage.

You want a minimum of 14 AWG but i would put in 12 AWG at a minimum. Copper, no aluminum.

1 Like
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Thanks Chris!

The original base unit for the HP Flat Panel (UTP-221) indicates that the output voltage is 49V. Do you think if there’d be any issues putting in the 48V Uxcell converter?

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I would go a minimum of 12 ga. copper.

The Omni Wire Gauge Calculator says that for 10A at 12VDC and no more than 4% voltage drop (0.48VDC) over 12 ft. you need 12 ga.

The calculations say 14 ga. would nearly double the voltage drop, but that’s assuming constant current, which is not what I would expect to happen. I expect the converter will seek to meet it’s output demand, thus increasing it’s input current demand to make up for the lost input voltage, thus increasing the voltage drop, thus increasing the current demand, thus… until a state of equilibrium is reached.

Also, The Engineering Toolbox: 12 Volt - Amps vs. Wire Gauge: Choosing the Right Wire Size suggests 12 ga. for 10A at 15 ft. (as short as their chart goes).

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Thanks Jim! I have 12 ga. currently in place, but maybe I’ll run 10 ga. just to be safe.

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Keep in mind the wire gauges I provided are for the DC-DC converter ↔ Yaosheng device. You need to ensure your proper 12v wire gauges based on the current being supplied (as Jim brought up). For high current DC, you really shouldn’t be using anything smaller than 12ga even though the 48VDC line could technically be 14ga.

1 Like
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Thanks Chris!

I’m not sure if you saw my other reply/question to you.

I’m going to replace the DC-DC converter. The replacement you suggested is 48V. The original Starlink power supply for this dish (UTP-221) is marked as having 49 VDC output. Do you this this is OK?