Ok, thanks! So, I can use my current LMR400 cable and just replace the antenna and modem/router. That looks like a good antenna. Have you tried one of those?
Which Pepwave BR1 should I go with? I have been using a Linksys wireless router with my current modem to put wifi all over the house. I may keep using it with the new Pepwave router. Would the BR1 Mini be as good as the BR1 MK2 if I’m going plug it in the Linksys for wifi?
-Existing LMR400 should be fine if it is in good shape
-Haven’t used that particular antenna, but I’ve studied/built/used log periodic antennas for a lot of years and that one looks excellent to me. Again, why do you need that much gain to go 4 miles, do you have some sort of obstruction? I would start with the Wilson and a new BR1 then see how it goes
-All the BR1’s use the same Sierra Wireless cell modem, difference is the Mini has less W-Fi power and LAN as a 2nd WAN requires an add on license. A regular BR1 LTEA would likely replace everything you have now and its built in AP should cover your house. If not, then add in a AP-One-AC-Mini to keep it uniform
Thanks for all of the suggestions. The cell tower is not line of sight from us. We have lots of hills and trees (north Alabama). The 700 mHz signal (band 12) reaches our house better, but it has less bandwith and has slower speeds. I wouldn’t need much gain to use it. However, the 1900 mHz signal (band 2) gives about 1 bar of signal on a cell phone when standing outside. I have a rooted android phone that I can lock on specific bands that I’ve used for testing.
Hello @uofa314,
There is a great amount involved in correctly choosing an antenna system that will deliver what you need and @Rexymav is steering you in the right direction.
In Australia (as in may other parts of the world) inline boosters are now band (illegal with $200k Fines in Australia if caught using them) as they cause more interference to the carriers network (& interfere with emergency services calls). They can also result in to much power going into you mobile/cellular modem.
Most cellular antenna system for MIMO work best with a out of phase antenna array (+/- 45 Degrees of the vertical), meaning you can have a very tightly packed antenna with exceptional performance.
We suggest that you contact your local Authorised Peplink Partner for specialised assistance.
Your local Certified Peplink Partner can help you with a copy of the Antenna Selection Guide for Peplink Partners, this is a detailed guide and is only available to the Peplink Partners so to ensure that you are helped in working through it to get the most suitable antenna solution to your application.
Remember that the majority of these systems are MIMO (Multi In, Multi Out), so you must ensure you use antennas and cabling that are suitably designed for the application.
Happy to Help,
Marcus 
Things are done different in the US @mldowling, only cell amps/repeaters that are FCC type approved can be used. When they are typed that means that they interact with the cell site to control power and may even reduce to zero gain. If you cause interference and get caught with a non-typed device then of course fines plus jail time may be possible. Wilson in particular sells complete repeater systems for consumers and pro’s that include everything from the outside antenna, repeater, inside antenna and cables. There has certainly been a lot of imported poor quality amps which prompted the switch to typed hardware after they caused the sort of problems you describe. Wilson led the FCC fight from the manufacturer standpoint to make sure typed equipment was allowed. Again, as in proper communications protocol, use the minimum power (and that includes gain) you need to achieve a reliable link.
Update on my antenna selection:
I ended up moving my ~10 dBi Wilson yagi antenna so that I can connect directly to it with a short 3’ cable to my modem. Even thought I was using LMR400 cable, I was losing a lot of signal through the cable. By eliminating the 50’ of cable, I gained about 7 dB of signal and now have about 3 bars of signal strength with no booster. The connection and download speeds are much more reliable. Now that I have the antenna problem figured out, I can move on to upgrading my modem/router.
Those antenna links changed so please use this one:
Rexymav,
Can you please provide the exact model number of the combiner you used as well as any other connectors or cables that is required for this setup. Want to make sure I replicate the same setup using the exact materials you used.
The antennas are above in the thread and I used the Wilson enclosed units from Solid Signal but you could also use the 15dbi exposed antennas if you need more gain. Remember, it is always best practice to use the minimum gain/power required to achieve the link. The combiner/splitter is the PD2021 with female N connectors and double female N couplers to connect the antennas with an L-com CA-SMNA002 Male N to Male SMA for the BR1 to the PD2021. I think the N couplers were from L-com also but they are readily available elsewhere. Get the CA-RSPNMA002 if you want to use the setup for WiFi. I have even run WiFi and Cell thru the splitter simultaneously since it has -60db of seperation.
http://www.l-com.com/coaxial-sma-male-to-n-male-pigtail-2-ft-195-series
http://www.l-com.com/coaxial-rp-sma-plug-to-n-male-pigtail-2-ft-195-series
http://www.l-com.com/coaxial-coaxial-barrel-adapter-type-n-male-male
Thanks you so much for the materials list…
Just wanted additional clarification on your comment about “could also use the 15dbi exposed antennas if you need more gain”. Can you provide a link to this antenna.
Once again, thank you so much for sharing this setup.
Forgot to ask another question…
I will need to run about 25 ft of coaxial cable from the combiner/splitter to the Pepwave device. What is the best coaxial cable to purchase? In addition would I still need the CA-SMNA002 or CA-RSPNMA002 pigtail?
Not sure what you’re trying to achieve but I think you’re going about this the wrong way. The best thing you could do is keep the device close to the antenna to minimize loss then run power to it and ethernet back. I’m not sure why you would add the gain of the antennas then throw it away with cable loss unless that was the only option! I would mount the device in a weatherproof box then use the shortest cable possible. What you want is an N-male to SMA cable and if you absolutely need 25’ then use this one but be real careful with the SMA side since they are fragile and easy to snap off with that size LMR400 cable:
http://www.l-com.com/coaxial-n-male-to-sma-male-400-series-assembly-25-ft
There are all sorts of N-Male to SMA depending on your needs and the LMR240 type are OK to 4-6’
I will stick with the with the 2ft CA-SMNA002 and CA-RSPNMA002 cable. However; I’m trying to find a similar cable on Amazon.com. I was able to find all the other materials on Amazon.com. Just trying to see if there are similar cables to the L.com CA-SMNA002 and CA-RSPNMA002 cable on Amazon.com.
Hello @pglover19,
Here is another place to buy your cables from, they ship all over the world.
For LCU195 Premade Cables
For LCU400 Premade Cables
Note: LCU### is a better installation alternative to LMR### as it is more flexible, vibration resistant and the outer coating is less prone to scratching,
We have been using cables from Telco Antennas for over five years, and although we do make our own, this is our prefered source when we need extra cables made to order or to send people to that are DIY (do it yourself).
Happy to Help,
Marcus
LCU400 has roughly 3db more loss across the range at 100m so it wouldn’t be my first choice if you are trying to minimize loss. Times Microwave also makes a “Superflex” version if flexibility is key but I’ve never had a problem with regular LMR400.
Is this a similar cable to the L.com CA-SMNA002 cable? Just trying to get all the materials from Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Bolton400-Cable-Coaxial-Commercial-Installations/dp/B07WNSCKV6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=lmr400+coaxial+cable+2ft&qid=1578705731&sr=8-4
